I am going to say it up front, this blog post is going to be all about me. Well not specifically me but a question that I always end up having to ask myself. That question is: what am I going to ride? I break surfboards...a lot. I snap clean through them. Generally it’s not even cool when I do it. It will be a head high plus day and I will drop into a barrel late, airdrop, hit the flats and break my board in two pieces. Its a horrible feeling to come up after you get a wave and have your board be in two pieces. Even worse is your next session. You just snapped your primary board and not all the time do you have a backup. That is also when your sessions get interesting. That is when you surf a hollow day at the pier with an old school 5'2" fish, or doing the same thing but with an alaia, or even surfing sidewalks on a low tide, closed out day on Tim Townsley's "Skim Board with Fins". You are restricted but at the same time a whole new window of opportunities arises for you. It does for me anyway.
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| This was on my last day in Hossegor. |
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| Those are my brother and I's alaias |
